Bandhani comes from the word “Bandhan” which means tying a knot and having a good relationship with someone. This is the culture of Rajasthan, Gujarat and Kutch where these Bandhani prints are prepared.
Bandhani, Bandhej or Bandhana prints puts a grace on every woman and make her look even more beautiful, be it a dupatta, saree or lehenga choli.
The rainbow coloured ‘Gharchola Odhnis’ of ladies of Gujarat and Rajasthan and the turbans of Rajput soldiers have bandhani prints on them with different shades of colour.
Mostly natural shades are used in Bandhani, the basic ones are yellow, red, green, blue and black. The famous fabrics used for the bandhani prints include silk, cotton, fleece, cotton-silk, jute and numerous different fabrics.
Bandhani work is a method of tie and dye which includes tying and colouring of small parts of cotton or silk fabric. This method has two stages for the making of prints:
- Tying a part of a length of fabric (mostly cotton) and
- Putting it into different colour shades.
Bandhani work, after the dyeing is over, results into a mixed lot of images which includes specks, squares, waves and strips.
The speck images are like dots named as bindi or bundi and also known as laddu which means appearance of a ring. The square images are known as dabbi or box. These little images are particularly made to keep in mind, the traditions, style and symbol of the royalty of Rajasthan and Gujarat which has been followed for a long time.
Bandhani or Tie and dye are a very historic art. Earlier the extracts of trees and leaves were used to colour the fabric but now chemical dyes are used in the making of the prints.
Bandhani includes making images by tying strings firmly from some chosen part of fabric so that the prints could be made from a couple to a few hundreds or even thousands images, before dipping the fabric in a shade of colour. The tied part does not get coloured and when the strings are removed, the fabric spreads out and the uncovered part gets the outline of the dye colour. Examples like Leheriya, Mothra, Ekdali, Shikari are famous and made regularly.
Bandhani prints can be made on other styles like T-shirt, Skirts and dresses.
The complex thing
The Bandhani work only completed by the Khatri group of Kutchh has made persuasive results. To explain, inside a meter length of fabric there could be more than countless minor bunches each one named as ‘Bheendi’. These Bheendis would together structure a ‘Kadi’When the colouring procedures are over and the bunches are opened, there are groupings like ‘Kombhi’, ‘Ghar Chola’, ‘Patori’, “Chandrokhani” and so on. . It is a complex phenomenon which outlines a very intelligent and careful practice resulting in the creative ability of the worker.
Important places of Bandhani
The focuses of tie and colour fabrics, particularly in Gujarat are Jamnagar, Mandhavi, Bhuj and Ahmedabad. The finest bandhani work of Rajasthan comes from Jaipur, Bikaner, Jodhpur, Pali, Udaipur and Nathdwara. Rajasthan is also well known for its Leheriya design which is designated as wave pattern or stripes dyed in the favourable colours of yellow and red. The specialists from Rajasthan work by developing a nail on their little finger to lift the material for tying or wear a little metal ring with a point. The Gujarati specialists like to work without these supports. The work becomes better when the specialists works with one’s exposed hands as it guarantees no harm to the material.
Popularity of Bandhani
Bandhani is consistently sold all over India and the interest has expanded all over the world in the past recent decades. Deals go mostly in the wedding seasons of India or during important functions in the family.
The greater part of the Gujarat and Rajasthan is the business sector where most ladies wear Bandhani saris, shawls or odhnis. The odhnis are additionally brightened up with mirrors, gota and tufts to provide a wealthier and more ornamental look to the outfit.
The most elite Bandhanis are generally sold at well-known retailers like Khatri Jamnadas Bechardas at Mumbai and Mangalya Heritage Bandhani in Ahmedabad.
Apart from the ladies living in the parts of Rajasthan and Gujarat, Bandhini prints are famous among celebrities too as they prefer looking bright and vibrant by wearing these prints.
Bandhani is famous not only in India, but abroad also people like wearing these prints.